London AW26
London moves through emotion, shifting between softness and control in a single, continuous mood.
BURBERRY
Presented at Old Billingsgate, Burberry framed the collection against a distinctly London backdrop. Architectural structures, reflective surfaces, and puddles of water created the impression of the city at night, polished, unpredictable, and slightly undone.Daniel Lee leaned into outerwear as the defining element. Heavy coats dominated the runway, layered, oversized, and structured, reinforcing a sense of protection and presence.
Trench coats, a core part of the house, were reworked through proportion and fabrication, appearing in shades of grey, navy, burgundy, and classic plaid. Almost every look carried weight, grounding the collection in something firm, but also slightly guarded.
Against this, the occasional absence of layering stood out. A singular dress, worn without the expected outer layer, interrupted the rhythm, exposing something more vulnerable. The shift felt intentional, a brief release before returning to shield.
The palette remained cool and restrained. Dark neutrals anchored the collection, while deeper burgundy tones added depth without breaking the mood.
A collection defined by presence and grounded in heritage, but shaped by the push and pull between tradition and disruption.
ERDEM
Erdem approached the collection through a deeply romantic lens, where emotion was expressed through beauty, art and precision.
There was an undeniable focus on femininity. Silhouettes felt considered and refined, with dresses shaping the body in a way that was both soft and controlled. Nothing felt excessive, yet every detail carried weight.
Textiles did much of the work. Florals appeared throughout, not overly delicate, but grounded and slightly darkened, giving them a sense of maturity. Lace, embroidery, and layered fabrics added depth, while moments of texture, feathers, shearlings, and heavier finishes, introduced contrast without disrupting the overall harmony.
Eveningwear sat at the core of the collection. It wasn’t overtly dramatic, but quietly powerful. The palette remained cohesive, while darker tones anchored the collection, softer shades and occasional colour moments added dimension without pulling focus.
There was a sense of emotion throughout, but it never overwhelmed. Instead, it was distilled into the garments themselves, expressed through cut, fabric, and finish.
The result was a deeply considered collection, defined by femininity, proving that emotion doesn’t need to be loud to be felt.
